Introduction

First of all, thank you very much for purchasing one of our DIY kits. This manual is aimed at guiding you step by step through the process of assembling an ATOV Gaeto. If you have any questions or if you are missing a part please contact us at info@atov.de.

Required tools and materials

First, to successfully build this DIY kit, you will need a few tools and materials.

• Soldering Iron
  • No need for a high-end iron. Temperature control is preferable, to avoid burning the flux in your solder and leaving residue. With prolonged use, higher than necessary temperatures will damage your soldering iron tip. In our workshop we use TS-100 digital soldering irons.
• Solder
  • We recommend lead-free solder as it is gentler on the environment and your health.
  • We have tested a lot of solder over the years and we now recommend the Stannol Kristall 611 TSC - Sn96.5Ag3Cu0.5. For a good all-rounder we would recommend 0.7 mm diameter solder. This is a truly no-clean solder; leaving very little residue, a great finish and with odorless flux fumes. (They do not sponsor us, we just very much like their product and we use them in our production line — Bonus: Their customer service is great!)
• Side cutter
  • We like flush cutters but side cutters will also work. Any cheap cutters will do but higher quality tools will last longer. Knipex is our go-to in the workshop.
• Multimeter
  • This is important to have for testing and troubleshooting. Use a multimeter with continuity mode. Our reliable and inexpensive recommendation is the ANENG AN8009.
• Flux (optional but recommended)
  • Liquid no-clean flux is sufficient for such a build. In our workshop we use the Stannol 32-10/i no-clean flux pen.

Secondly, to build this kit you need to know how to solder. If you want to learn, our recommendation is to purchase an inexpensive DIY kit from your local electronics shop. This will allow you to train yourself at soldering and build confidence before building a more complex kit.

If you need a small refresh on soldering techniques, here is a tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qps9woUGkvI

Part 1 - Back Side

Open bag Gaeto Parts. Make sure this bag contains all the parts.

This bag should contain:

• 10 x jacks + nuts
• 2 x LED switch
• 1 x 3-pin switch
• 4 x LED
• 1 x 2*5 pin header
• 1 x 6-pin header

The parts needed for the back side are:

• 1 x 3-pin switch
• 1 x 2*5 pin header
• 1 x 6-pin header

Keep these parts at hand and keep the rest in a safe place.

Unfold the PCB+Panel and place the panel in a safe place to avoid scratches. You might want to keep a piece of the tape that held the PCB and Panel together — you will need it to make sure the LEDs are mounted flush to the panel.

Step 1 - Solder the 2*5 pin header / Eurorack power connector

To ensure the header is soldered properly, please follow these steps:

First solder only one pin. Check whether the header is perpendicular to the PCB. If not, reheat the same pin and push the header against the PCB. Once the header is perfectly positioned, solder the remaining pins.

Check your work and ensure no bridges are formed between the pins. Shorts between these pins could potentially damage your PSU. Use your multimeter in continuity mode — you should not have continuity between the +12V, GND and -12V.

Step 2 - Solder the in and out pin headers

Cut two 3-pin sections out of the 6-pin header. Then use the same procedure as the last step: solder one pin, ensure the header is positioned properly before soldering the rest.

Step 3 - Solder the 3-pin slide switch

If your PCB revision is V1.1 or above the switch is already soldered.

Again, solder one pin, check your work and then solder the remaining pins.

Part 2 - Front Side

Make sure you have now flipped the PCB! All of the following parts will now be soldered on the front side of the PCB.

Step 1 - Jacks

Place a jack on the top left and one jack on the bottom right of the module. Solder only one pin on each of the jacks. Then reheat the pin and push the component with your finger so that the jack is really flush with the PCB.

Then place the rest of the jacks and place the panel on top. Use nuts to secure the panel to the jacks that were soldered in the previous step. Then solder the rest of the pins.

Once done, remove the panel.

Step 2 - LED Switches

This step is critical to get right — otherwise the module will not work correctly.

Place the two LED switches in their location on the top part of the PCB. Make sure the polarity is correct — the flat side on the silkscreen should be aligned with the flat side on the LED switch.

Place the panel on the module and secure it with one or more nuts.

Now be careful — this step is critical. Please follow carefully, otherwise the left switch will not work properly.

Flip the module and let the switches rest on the table. This allows them to sit a little above the PCB.

Solder the pins of the switches.

The reason why this step is critical is because there is a component very close to the left switch. If the switch is soldered too close to the PCB it can interfere with the action of the switch and prevent it from working properly. This issue is present on PCB revisions V1.0 and V1.1. It is corrected in V1.2 and above.

Step 3 - LEDs

The LEDs are polarized! Be careful not to solder them the wrong way as it is difficult to remove! The long leg is the positive pole and goes where the + mark is. After inserting the LEDs, mount the panel and secure it using a few nuts (don't put them all on just yet). Push the LEDs into the holes on the panel. Use a bit of tape so that the LEDs stay flush to the panel.

Solder them and cut the legs with your side cutter.

Congratulations! You are now done with the soldering!

Part 3 - Testing

Step 1 - Check for shorts

• Set your multimeter to continuity mode. Test the pins on the power header. You should not have continuity between the +12V, GND and -12V. If you do, check the soldering on the power header.

Step 2 - Test the functions of the module

Power the module using your Eurorack power supply and the included power cable. The -12V (red line) should face down.

Set the mode switch on the back of the module to LEAD.

When powered up, press the LED switches — they should toggle from off to on and vice versa.

Then use a voltage source to apply a signal to the Mode CV input of each side. Each time the voltage goes above 1V the state of the LED switch should change.

We will then test the CLOCK, DATA, A output and non-A output of one channel at the same time.

Plug a voltage source into the CLOCK and DATA inputs. Use the A output and the non-A output connected to something that reacts to gates — two envelope generators for example.

Make sure the MODE switch is in gate mode (LED off).

When applying voltage to the CLOCK input while maintaining the voltage at the DATA input low, the following should happen:

• The LED switch should light up with the signal at the CLOCK input.
• The non-A LED should light up with each clock signal.
• The non-A output should send a gate at each clock signal.

Then apply voltage to the DATA input. When applying voltage to the CLOCK input, the following should happen:

• The LED switch should light up with the signal at the CLOCK input.
• The A LED should light up with each clock signal.
• The A output should send a gate at each clock signal.

To check if the normalization of channel A is working properly, unplug the signal on the DATA input of the first channel. In this mode the module should output gates from the A output and the non-A output in an alternating manner.

When this is all working, perform the same testing sequence with the B channel on the right of the module. Please note that the normalization allowing for clock division is not implemented in channel B.

Any issues? Contact us at support@atov.de

Part 4 - Final Assembly

When everything works well, you can finally install the remaining jack nuts. Use the included washers to mount your new module to avoid any marks from the mounting screws.

Congratulations! Your ATOV Gaeto is now complete and fully functional.